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JEWELLERY : ЮВЕЛИРНЫЕ УКРАШЕНИЯ - 2011

Bibliographic Description

Jewellery : Ювелирные украшения - 2011. – М. : Голконда, 2011. – ISBN 1813-1611.

Publisher
Голконда
Year of publication
2011
Classification index (UDC)
—
Language
Russian
Publication type
Book
Country of Publication
—
Access
Available to all

Description

"If a single global piggy bank had been invented, into which everyone who mentions the global economic crisis threw in at least one euro toward overcoming it, the crisis would have ended long ago and the world would have plunged once again into a sleepy and thoughtless abundance. So much effort and resources have been thrown into the fight against the financial cataclysm, not to mention every possible theory about it, that amid all this upheaval the situation in one comparatively small but wonderful industry - the jewelry trade - has been completely lost from view. It is interesting to see which themes come to the fore in this situation. Practically all the major players on the world jewelry scene, without any prior agreement among themselves, have given birth to collections that can be summed up in a single word - "menagerie." The precious animals are made with greater or lesser humor and with varying amounts of precious materials. What they have in common is one thing: a touchingly sentimental style has come to reign in the jewelry world, a style which, as we know from history, has always been a sign of instability in politics, in the economy and, most importantly, in people's minds and hearts. Plant and animal motifs in jewelry always come into fashion in unstable times. The reason is obvious: worn down by uncertainty and the struggle to survive, people want to add at least a little love and tenderness to their lives. Toy bears, cats, dogs, hedgehogs, squirrels and other "cutie cuties" create this illusion. "Hug and cry" - such is the theme that has now taken over the jewelry counters. Jewelers are left simply to compete over which bear or bunny turns out cuter. Take, for example, Chopard, which fired off a whole "Noah's Ark" - for its 150th anniversary it produced a collection of jewelry animals. The creator of the collection, Chopard vice-president Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele, approached the task with no small sense of humor: just as in Noah's Ark, the collection found room not only for everyone's beloved furry animals but also for ants, frogs and even worms. No less emotion is stirred by Gianni Lazzaro's collection of animals - there one encounters amusing turtles and octopuses, owls and seahorses, an elephant and lizards. In the Van Cleef & Arpels collection, dedicated to Jules Verne, an elephant can also be seen, while at Boucheron an elephant keeps company with a lemur and a playing kitten. Frogs, which, according to popular belief, bring money and happiness, are today the most sought-after animals in the jewelry world. And who would turn down money and happiness? That is why little froggies have settled into every collection... Another touching character believed by some peoples (the Italians, for example) to bring happiness is the hedgehog. We all remember Boucheron's hedgehogs. Now they have appeared at Lorenz Baumer. And the Russian designer Alexei Barsukov drew his inspiration from the "Hedgehog in the Fog"... The Jewellery Theatre company turned to Russian fairy tales and, naturally, could not do without magical animals. A squirrel and the Swan-Geese, the Firebird and the Golden Fish live peacefully side by side in a collection inspired by the drawings of Bilibin. The German company Stenzhorn, meanwhile, set off for Africa and India - to leopards, tigers and lions... If anyone thinks that the "animal" theme is merely a tribute to a passing fashion, they are mistaken. In the workshops of the world's leading jewelers I caught a glimpse of the sketches and ideas they are planning to develop in the future. And so, we can expect a further immersion into the world of flora and fauna ahead of us. Palmiero is preparing to surprise us with a collection of peacocks and elephants, Wallace Chan likewise remains true to his main source of inspiration - nature... So choose for yourself whichever animal warms your heart the most - and off you go."

Machine translation, not reviewed by the editors